![]() Overlapping the yarns catches the old color as the two strands “link elbows” and prevents a gap at the color change. Then, the new color is picked up from under the old color and worked from there. At each color change, the old color is brought over the new color. The key to working intarsia is to interlock the yarns when it’s time to change from one color to the next. The instructions should tell you where to position it. If only one area of the project features an intarsia motif, then the chart will usually show only the stitches and rows used for the motif itself. Charts for very large intarsia projects can even show every stitch of an entire knitted piece. Each stitch is represented by a colored square or a square containing a color symbol. Intarsia patterns are generally worked from a chart. When a color is not in use, it is dropped to the wrong side of the work until it is needed again on the next row for its designated stitches. Each area of color is worked from an individual ball, bobbin, or length of yarn. Unlike stranded colorwork, in which small, repeating patterns are created by alternating two strands of yarn in different colors across a row, intarsia colorwork designs are generally larger and more free-form. Intarsia patterns can be worked in as few as two colors or as many as needed for a given design. Learn some intarsia basics along with us and get some pattern ideas to get started.Ībove: Jigsaw Top by Melissa Leapman What Is Intarsia Colorwork? While there are very advanced applications of intarsia colorwork, the core technique is fairly straightforward. ![]() It opens up a whole world of possibilities in your knitting. This will be yarn waste, but usually not too much as I prefer an ikat shifted look.Intarsia or “picture knitting” is a colorwork technique used to create basic geometric shapes or complicated pictures in knitting. If the pooling starts to get way off, I will wrap a few times around the starting peg. The color pooling will naturally feather as I wind. Step 5: Use the same starting peg and wind your loop and end on the same peg. I measure out my guide string in a continuous loop or circle using my warping board and a plate rack! This may be a little different than some might recommend, but I strive for as little yarn waste as possible. Step 3: It is usually helpful to make a guide string the length of circumference 63” x 2.5 repeats is 157.5” or 4.38 yards. Step 2: Determine the length of your project or the length of an overall warp that is closest to the length of the yarns you are using them with. Step 1: Find the circumference of a painted skein. Therefore I have more recently decided to color-pool for a purpose to use in intended portions of a draft! This means if I’m using it with warps of 4.0 or 4.5 yards, there will be some yarn waste. I do not turn on an ending peg like I do as I wind my other warps! Because I often weave or combine them with other warps, I have found that the closest yardage I can wind with many of my dyed skeins of 63” circumference is 4.38 yards. I wind my warp in a continuous loop or circle and using the same peg to start with is critical. I have seen weavers use warping mills and some use their warping boards. As weavers, some of our warping tools might make it helpful or more challenging. Daryl Lancaster also has an example in her Chaos Draft that you may purchase from her website. One of the best blogs I have seen was published by Syne Mitchell in 2012 I believe. There are many blogs and resources about color-pooling. Color-pooling can be time consuming, but really worth the effort! I often will color-pool a small amount for a color accent in a warp rather than color-pooling an entire skein of 500 yards. Those beautiful dyed skeins! What can be done with them if you want to plan something in addition to a random weft weaving? Sometimes the colors in a hand-dyed skein can be just what you need to plan a project with other solid or hand-dyed yarns.
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